A few points of observation: Rwanda
(edited/updated: 2/25)
- Lack of Rubbish: The country, urban and rural, is amazingly clean of rubbish like plastic bags and excessive packaging. Apparently, the government has banned plastic bags, and that might explain why I kept seeing people carrying little paper bags that I mistook for a national program to “Pack your own Lunch to Work”. The ban, like many of the government’s blanket laws, has its drawbacks.
- Hand-shakes and Greetings: I lost count at 10. I’m not sure if there are certain social rules, or if it is all just at the whim of the individual. I did notice that when I met a stranger they typically lightly shook hands with the right while using their left hand to touch their own forearm. I also saw lots of hugging and cheek kissing. And of course, the ever popular fist-to-fist, and pumping of the chest once to show heart.
- Small Country: Everyone knows everyone! Or, so it seems to the outsider. Just watching on a street corner one sees people bumping into old friends at a consistent rate. When I mentioned who I met in this meeting or that to someone, they often would know the person. The rule that we are 6 removed from knowing everyone is more like 2 removed in Rwanda. Rwanda is 26,340 KM2 with a population of 8.2 million. The most densely populated country in Africa at 320 people per km².
- Right and Left Sided Automobiles: Rwandans drive on the right side of the road, but have a mix-match of vehicles with steering wheels on either the right or the left. It is a point of concern when imagine a car with right sided steering wheel trying to pass a dowry along a twisting mountain road. The visibility, already a concern, is amplified. An interesting history can be found in Denis Seguin’s article, “The right side of the road.” Also,related, Rwandans actually have and follow a front seat seatbelt law!
- Mzungu (white man): The call is loud and proud. I could be flying by at 60mph and undoubtedly someone would catch a glimpse of me and call out, “Mzungu!”. I don’t believe any offense is intended, but it does sound strange when someone wanting to practice English comes up from behind and calls out, “white man!”
- Pace of Life: Things move slow in Rwanda. If the majority of people made a sustainable living, I might call it a Take Back Your Time dream state. I’ve been in other countries that move at a slower pace, and in those places it is typically associated with a certain lack of initiative. In Rwanda, I felt that people just weren’t in a rush. It is best not to rely to heavily on the timescales if a local was setting up the schedule. One of the first English phrase people learn is, ” no problem”, which works nice for a commonly used word meaning the same thing, ntakibazo.
- No Dogs: There is little sign of the four legged creatures. I heard a few bark behind walls, but the only dogs on the street that I saw were roadkill.
Hey Mzungu. I was blog searching. Read this. Thought…hmmm…that sounds kinda familiar. And THEN I put the pieces together. It sounds familiar because I was there…
You got to know when to hold em, know when to fold em,
Know when to walk away and know when to run.
You never count you r money when you’re sittin’ at the table.
There’ll be time enough for countin’ when the dealin’s done.
Comment by Lucia — February 25, 2007 @ 3:51 pm
haha! a great simple summary of the country. as an American living and working in Kigali, Rwanda, your summary hits home.
The longer you spend in Rwanda the more you see beyond the aforementioned points, but to the visitor or casual observer your summary is spot on.
In response to Lucia, Kenny Rogers is the only cd that one of our Rwandan drivers has. He listens to “The Gambler” over and over. What is it about country music and Rwandans?
Great article, keep writing.
Comment by justin — March 2, 2007 @ 1:30 am
Thanks, Justin. Likewise with our driver. We rocked out as we pulled into the airport.
Comment by glhjr — March 2, 2007 @ 9:19 am